“NOTE TO SELF, ADD TO BUCKET LIST: GET FIVE (7) CÉLINE COATS.”  Honestly, this review could pretty much end right there as it is often the case with collections that are just a smack-in-yo-face in tune with our deepest most up to date, relevant fashion sentiment.

Except Philo is one of the rare few that does it systematically, every season. Bouya.

A collection that could have been dubbed “fight the (man) power!” in all its DB military coats, high waisted tweed pants, and heavy, clunky shoes/sandals. But it is accurately a very feminine line. The asymmetrical white buttons on the aforementionned coats (offered in an imaginative set of four that opened the show), the soft feel of fur and wool, form-fittingly caressing the beautiful curves. Not unlike something Marc Jacobs offered in his last collection as well.

One of the flag bearers of the new shape, Philo’s women have reinvented themselves by taking in the manly and womanly in full stride. Layering tweed, adding flower lapels and wearing pants are obviously no longer only reserved to men. Yet there is more to it. Much more.

Take for instance a leopard print coat with its lapel, folded outward, showing the “front” side of the fabric or an astrakhan coat with no lapel half blended with one of those severe black coats. One earring only. Or no earring at all. Its about subversiveness, dumbo. It’s about a woman required to do all things a man does, in a man dominated world AND do all the things expected from her as a woman, see.

So you tell us, will you blame them for not giving a shit if the accessories aren’t in proper place? Or if their pants droop down to their shoes? Hell, or even if their coats are reversed or mush-mashed like a DIY with “no means”?

Of course not, you’ll only wish you could get a whiff as they pass you by, actually.


source: style.com


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